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100% organic cotton

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We've all heard the phrase 100% organic, but what does it mean and why is it good for us and our planet? What is the difference between a 100% organic cotton T-Shirt and a cotton T-Shirt? Well we need to start at the very beginning of the growing cycle. Organic seeds are just as nature made them, not treated with any chemicals and not genetically modified in any way, meaning that they need to be planted, nurtured and harvested in the way nature intended. Commercial cotton seeds are what are know as GMO (genetically modified organisms) seeds. These have been treated with fungicides or insecticides to help them repel insects or be able to sustain growth if they do not get the water or sunlight that they need. Allied to this we see a difference in the way the soil is prepared and maintained. An organic farmer will build strong soil through crop rotation and manual weed removal with a hand hoe. This is a time consuming method of farming but has in benefits as well. Once in progress the organic soil will retain more water through the organic matter that is maintained in the soil thus reducing the need for as much water. Non organic farmers will apply synthetic fertilizers to speed up the growing of the seed and operate a mono crop farming process i:e growing only cotton in the same field year after year. This leads to a poor quality of soil due to the necessary minerals not being able to regenerate and the need for intensive irrigation as the soil can not hold as much water naturally. They will apply Herbicides to the soil to inhibit weed germination and repeatedly spray more herbicides to kill any weeds that do grow. If the commercial farmer hadn't introduced enough chemicals already then there is the issue of pest control. Whilst most of us might not like the sound or look of many insects, they do have their place in the eco-system. An organic farmer will use some methods to get rid of unwanted guests by planting what is know as a 'Trap Crop' to lure the insects away from the cotton and on to another plant. But on the whole they remain in the environment and are controlled by their natural predators whilst still giving goodness to the soil. On the other hand a commercial farmer will use insecticides to control insects. In cotton farming alone this accounts for 25% of the worlds consumption of such chemicals. Nine of the most commonly used Pesticides are highly toxic whilst five are probable Carcinogens (a chemical that is known to cause cancer). On larger farms this is applied by aerial spraying meaning that the chemicals are drifting into neighboring wildlife and communities not to mention the farm workers themselves. The last part of the process is harvesting. You would have thought this must be the same, but no the commercial farmer has one last chance to add more chemicals to the process. Naturally the cotton is ready to harvest when the weather changes and a freeze occurs. This is when the defoliation naturally occurs and and the cotton bolls are ready to be picked. Done by hand the farm workers carefully pick only the mature bolls and leave the rest of the plant intact. The commercial farmer will use a chemical to defoliate the cotton plant and then use a large machine that takes not only the mature bolls with it but everything else including the twigs and soil, leading to the a fore mentioned soil issues. So as you can see there are many differences to the way organic cotton is grown, but what does it really mean for the consumer and the farmer? Well the farmer normally has a smaller farm and is reliant on getting a good price for his crop to support himself and his family. This is where the Fairtrade foundation comes in. They ensure a fair price for the crop and decent working conditions for the farm workers trying to ensure that child labour is not used. For more information please go to www.fairtrade.org.uk. It also has a huge impact on the earth and the way that water and salt are consumed, meaning that in areas where irrigation is hard to come by more water can be used for drinking and cooking and less is needed for farming. As for the consumer you will have a softer feel to the fabric and one that will keep its shape better along with knowing that you have helped the environment and the farmers that are working to produce our clothes. Joff Cheney

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